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Most famous for its citizens having the world’s highest level expectancy, the Okinawan archipelago is no longer just a destination for healthy ageing, as tourist numbers in 2017 exceeded its more famous island counterpart – Hawaii – for the first time. At Skyscanner, we also found that Okinawa has become a trending destination for Singaporeans, with searches more than doubling year-on-year.

I was not aware of these statistics during my recent trip to Okinawa, and traveling in March outside of peak season, I was surprised to see domestic and international tourists alike flocking in throngs to its top attractions. Of course, with Jetstar opening up three flights from $371 per week (Sunday, Monday, Friday) to Naha Airport, it has become much more accessible and affordable for Singaporeans to explore Okinawa. If you’re contemplating whether to visit this island paradise, head there sooner rather than later to enjoy its unspoiled natural beauty.

Unique Okinawan Food and Souvenirs

While Okinawa shares beautiful cherry blossoms and fresh seafood with the mainland, the two places come from quite different roots. The former Ryukyu Kingdom, centered in Shuri Castle, was an important trading hub linking China, Japan, and Southeast Asia. The most obvious present-day manifestation of this is in Okinawan cuisine, where signature dishes include goya champuru (stir-fried bitter gourd) and rafute (braised pork belly) – flavors that should be familiar to the Singaporean palate.

Goya_Champuru — Image credit: Banzai Hiroaki

Far from detracting from the cuisine, the mix-pot of different cultures add an interesting element to the Okinawan palate. Some of my favorite dishes include the Western-inspired taco rice, peanut-flavored tofu, and the local seafood, raw and deep-fried alike. Don’t forget to leave space for Okinawa’s unique sweets such as chinsuko (similar to shortbread cookies), sata andagi (round doughnuts), and sweet potato-flavored items like soft serve ice cream and tarts.

Getting Around in Okinawa

Should you hire a car in Okinawa? The short answer is: Yes. The long answer is that it depends on the duration of your trip: a general rule would be if you have 3 or more days and mostly traveling outside Naha, you should consider getting a car rental. Driving is cost-effective in Okinawa and gives you more time (buses have have 30+ min intervals), accessibility (for attractions off the tourist trail), and flexibility to get around. A quick comparison of the cost would speak for itself:

Public bus from Naha to Churaumi Aquarium, 4 pax: ¥20,000
One day bus tour to Churaumi Aquarium and other sights, 4 pax: ¥24,000
My 5 days car rental around Okinawa (CDW inclusive): ¥15,800

Tips for Driving in Okinawa

Understand the local road conditions

The good news: Okinawa drives on the same side as Singapore, the main island north-to-south can be covered in 2.5 hours, and there are many scenic drives that will take your breath away.

The bad news: Okinawa’s road infrastructure slightly lags behind its tourism boom. Try to avoid morning and evening peak hours, especially on the congested Route 58 out of Naha. A major pet peeve is that Google Maps has a tendency to take the most direct route – in smaller cities like Okinawa City and Nago, this usually means continuously turning into narrow two-way alleys where you have to inch cautiously past oncoming traffic. When driving at night outside of Naha, expect many roads to be unlit, unlike Singapore’s ubiquitous street lighting.

2. Get your International Driving License

Getting your IDP in Singapore is quick and painless, not to mention mandatory for driving in Japan. You may do so online on the Automobile Association of Singapore website ($20 + $5.50 courier service), or walk in to one of their offices at Kallang Bahru or Ang Mo Kio to waive the courier fee. The entire walk-in process for me and my partner took about 15 minutes, though the site indicates you might need to wait for up to an hour.

3. Prepare for highway tolls

The expressway stretching from Naha to its terminus at Kyoda is a life saver, and will take you to the northern part of Okinawa near the Churaumi Aquarium in half the time it would on Route 58. Needless to say, its well worth the toll (chart below). Most rental cars do not come with the ETC cash card, so do ensure you’re on the general lane when pulling into the toll station and prepare your cash ahead of time.

Okinawa Self-Drive Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Naha

Start your trip by visiting arguably Naha’s most photographed attraction: Shuri Castle. The former center of politics, culture, and trade for the Ryukyu Kingdom, Shuri-jo gives a commanding view of the city where its monarchs once looked upon merchant ships sailing into Naha port. The highlight of the castle interior is the main hall Seiden, which provides a regal and vivid recreation of life for its royal inhabitants. Seasonal festivities are also held in the castle throughout the year, most notably the Shuri Castle Festival in November as well as New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations.

Getting there: Walk from Shuri station. On the first day, I would recommend to opt for the monorail over a car to explore Naha, due to traffic congestion in the city. Tip – the monorail day passes entitles you to 20% discounts for most attractions in Naha, including Shuri Castle, Prefectural Museum and the Former Navy Underground Base.

After working up an appetite from exploring the castle grounds, reward yourself with a meal along Kokusai-dori, Naha’s lively thoroughfare. A great one-stop-shop for souvenirs, shopping, and dining, Kokusai-dori also houses Makishi Public Market, where you will find a mouth-watering array of Okinawan delicacies. You can even pick out seafood from the ground floor stalls to be served fresh at the dining hall upstairs. Don’t miss the Ayumi bakery on the 2nd floor, largely considered as the best place in Naha to sample handmade sata andagi (fried dough ball).

Getting there: Walk from Makishi station.

Day 2: Itoman & Nanjo

Pick up your rental car first thing in the morning as the journey by public bus to Okinawa Peace Memorial Park in Itoman takes close to four times as long. Perched on the southern tip of Okinawa island, the peaceful grounds of the park have a bloody past as the site for the final confrontation in the Battle of Okinawa. The accompanying museum will leave you with a somber yet poignant reminder of the archipelago’s war-torn past.

Nirai kanai refers to a mythical paradise in Ryukyuan mythology where all life originated from. While not quite as spiritual as its namesake, the Nirai Kani Bridge offers a heavenly view of the Pacific Ocean as you drive down toward Cape Chinen. You are not permitted to stop along the bridge itself, but after passing through the tunnel there will be a parking lot located near the observatory deck. Continue on to World Heritage site Sefa-utaki, the most renowned “power spot” on the island where the Ryukyu Kingdom’s highest-ranking priestesses were inaugurated. The places of worship in this serene forest grove are naturally formed by limestone rocks and caves, representing the close spiritual relationship the Ryukyuan people had with nature. Less than a mile away from Sefa-utaki is Cape Chinen, a lovely outcrop surrounded with a panoramic view of the sea on three sides.

Day 3: Nakagusuku Castle and Miyagi / Ikei / Hamahiga-jima

This day sees you starting north from Naha. An ideal base for days 3 and 4 would be Okinawa City, the prefecture’s second-most populated city which is located centrally between the attractions on either coast.

The Ryukyu Kingdom’s feudal past only remains in the stones of its gusuku, numerous fortresses collectively designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000. Aside from the reconstructed Shuri-jo, all the other gusuku were left in ruins after the Battle of Okinawa in 1945. While there are many scattered across the island, Nakagusuku Castle is the best preserved. Standing at approximately the height of Mt Faber (100m), it is a popular site to usher in the first sunrise of the New Year for locals and on a clear day you can see its once-rival Katsuren Castle in the distance.

Continue on eastward to the Kaichu-doro Causeway, which connects the mainland to four offshore islands. These islands are decidedly off the main tourist trail and I went in not knowing what to expect. Here are the highlights we found:

Miyagi Island: Nuchi-una Sightseeing and Salt Factory came highly recommended by my Airbnb host and is recognized in the Guinness Book of World Records for producing salt with the largest amount of minerals in the world. After seeing more salt than you’ll ever see in your life, I highly recommend to try the salted soft-serve ice cream in the shop – it sells out at times, so go early! That’s not all to the factory premises: at the parking lot, follow the bright yellow sign that reads “Happy Cliff” to stunning views of the cliff face and waters so clear you can see right through to the coral reefs below.
Ikei Island: Ikei Beach is one of the best venues for water sports in Okinawa, with facilities to enjoy snorkeling, wake boarding, banana boats, and glass-bottom boats.
Hamahiga Island is steeped in mythology as it is believed to be the cradle of Okinawan civilization, where the Ryukyuan gods Amamichu and Shirumichu created the archipelago. At the top of 108 stone stairs lies Shirumichu Cave, a sacred site where Okinawan priestesses would go to pay their respects. Tread with respect, as women and couples still come to the cave today to pray for fertility.

Day 4: Ryukyu Village, Cape Maeda and American Village

Between Okinawa’s two main theme parks – Okinawa World and Ryukyu Mura – I would highly recommend visiting the latter. as the former feels more contrived and commercial. Delve into Okinawa’s past at Ryukyu Village which features reconstructed houses from all over the archipelago complete with performers dressed in period costumes. Traditional performances are held at various locations every hour, so don’t forget to pick up a brochure with the timings. The highlight of our visit was painting our own Shisa, a Ryukyuan guardian lion for a reasonable ¥1,300, the same price if we were to purchase it directly from a shop along Kokusai-dori.

Tip: instead of having lunch at Ryukyu Village, take a 5 minutes drive to the Onna no Eki market, another local recommendation from our host. This is one of a few ‘highway’ rest stops along Route 58 where you can find affordable, fresh local food. I had a bento for just ¥500. Then, continue on to Cape Maeda, possibly the most popular snorkeling spot in Okinawa during the summer. The more intrepid can consider going further to the Blue Cave, which as its name suggests is always bathed in a resplendent blue glow. You can choose to join a tour there with experienced guides.

Finally, take in the sunset over dinner at American Village. The complex comes alive at night – you might want to arrive before 6pm to find parking on weekends. Embrace the kitsch and you’ll soon find yourself trying on American apparel in thrift shops and digging for knick-knacks to take home.

Day 5: Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium & Ocean Expo Park

It’s time for the next leg of your journey north; an ideal base for days 5 and 6 would be Nago City or Motobu. I’ll cut straight to the chase: seeing the colossal whale sharks was well worth every penny of the ¥1,850 aquarium ticket. Tip: you can get a ¥250 discount off each ticket at Kyoda Rest Area, which is on the right after exiting the expressway. The highlight of Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium is undoubtedly the whale shark feeding which happens twice a day at 3pm and 5pm. Another highlight of your visit is actually outside the aquarium itself, where you will find three splendid – and amazingly, free – exhibits housing dolphins, giant turtles, and manatees. We stayed for both dolphin shows at the amphitheater and had a whale of a time (if you’ll forgive the pun).

The aquarium is just the beginning of what the Ocean Expo Park complex has to offer. At just ¥190, the Oceanic Culture Museum and Planetarium is a steal. The museum itself diverges from Japanese history and gives visitors an immersion into the sea-faring nations of the Pacific Rim. Kids and adults alike will love the planetarium, particularly the program Fantasy Railroad In The Stars, an animated recreation of a classic Japanese fantasy. Other highlights in the park include the Tropical Dream Center, where you can stroll around a floral paradise for just ¥380 (for aquarium ticket holders), and Emerald Beach, which was named one of Japan’s top 100 beaches and is one of the widest in Okinawa. Children can enjoy two free playground complexes at Kids Adventure Land and Sunset Square. For families, both are a brilliant choice to let your kids play to their heart’s content while parents unwind with views over the sea.

Day 6: Cape Hedo, Daisekirinzan National Park & Kouri Island

Most tourists only venture as far north as the Churaumi Aquarium, missing out much of the natural beauty that can be found in Okinawa’s Yanbaru, the mountainous north known for its rich wildlife and natural sights. Start off your day with a scenic drive to the northernmost tip of Okinawa Prefecture – Cape Hedo. On a clear day, you can see as far as Yoron-jima to the north, which lies in Kagoshima Prefecture. A number of monuments decorate the cape, including one which commemorates Okinawa’s return to Japan in 1972. While there is no shortage of incredible ocean views around Okinawa, Yanbaru’s best attractions are inland, at Daisekirinzan National Park, Hiji Falls, and Yanbaru Wildlife Conservation Center. If you only have time for one, I would recommend Daisekinrinzan (entrance ticket: ¥820) – just 5 minutes drive from Cape Hedo – which literally means 大石林山 “big stone woods mountain”. The reason for the name will become quickly evident once the shuttle bus drops you at the entrance of the four walking trails where jagged limestone formations erupt from the ground. Each walking trail is a leisurely 30 minutes walk, and you can combine the ‘Wonder of Rocks’ and ‘Sea View’ courses to have a route that brings you through otherworldly spiritual rock groves to (another) panoramic view of Cape Hedo.

Finally, if you have time before heading back to Naha, Kouri Island will make for a wonderful end to your getaway. The island is like a microcosm of Okinawa, offering my favorite beaches in Okinawa with little tide pools to see marine life, the natural wonder of the “Heart Rock” created by battering tides, and every turn of your drive is filled with interesting shops and cafes. Grab a snack for the road ahead of the final two hour journey back to Naha.

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Your comprehensive road trip guide to Okinawa, Japan